What Went Wrong

Creasing

1 July 2011



Richard Neale describes the finishing techniques that will result in a garment that is free of unwanted creasing


Problems with creases can be avoided or solved

While clothes are often sent in because they are grubby, smelly or stained, many customers will bring in a garment just because the appearance needs smartening. Such customers can only judge the result by the quality of the finish as this will be the only visible change.

The free-steam press or professional finishing table is ideal for wool and other hair fabrics because the moisture in the steam softens the cloth and makes it pliable. Applying heat and pressure will remove creases. If the wool cloth suffers relaxation shrinkage during the process then the cleaner can set it back to size by using steam and tension.

This method does not work as well for cotton and it is unlikely to produce a good result on linen. These fibres need liquid moisture rather than steam. Areas that have become heavily creased with wear, such as the area running from the front of the thighs into the crotch, are best pressed from damp to get a perfect finish. This will generally remove the creases entirely, although the wear marks on the proud points of the creases may still be visible.

Some creases are caused by the cleaner’s negligence. If acetate, viscose or silk are drycleaned with too much moisture in the system then crack-creasing can result. When this happens no amount of heavy pressing will remove the resultant “cracked-ice” effect, even if the area is dampened first.

Over-drying a lightweight polyester blouse will produce excessive static in the fabric (especially if the detergent charge has been reduced) and this will result in tired, limp creases, which cannot be pressed out.

CASE STUDIES

Linen looks creased

Fault: The cleaner finished this linen coat using a free-steam press that was in good condition. Even after expert pressing, the material still looked creased.

Cause: Linen can sometimes be finished successfully with steam but frequently it needs damping down to achieve perfection. The material can withstand the temperature of a three dot setting, which is the highest on the iron, and this combination of heat and dampness will give a perfect result.

Responsibility: The blame here lies with the presser. Finishing linen correctly is part of the cleaner’s craft skill.

Rectification: Press the garment again using the method suggested here and the result should be perfect.


Wrinkles spoil armhole seam

Fault: The cleaner finished this linen coat using a free-steam press that was in good condition. Even after expert pressing, the material still looked creased.

Cause: Linen can sometimes be finished successfully with steam but frequently it needs damping down to achieve perfection. The material can withstand the temperature of a three dot setting, which is the highest on the iron, and this combination of heat and dampness will give a perfect result.

Responsibility: The blame here lies with the presser. Finishing linen correctly is part of the cleaner’s craft skill.

Rectification: Press the garment again using the method suggested here and the result should be perfect.


Crack creases in silk dress

Fault: The cleaner pre-spotted a silk wedding dress and treated the soiled hemline with water and bar soap, working over a shower tray. He drycleaned the dress but afterwards it had fine creases in many areas, especially those that had been treated.

Cause: Silk can be affected by a combination of water and mechanical action. If the fibres are still damp when the dress goes into the machine then the mechanical action combined with the dampness will produce irreversible creases. This gives a “cracked ice” or a “basket-weave” effect. The creases are so fine and tight that they cannot be pressed out.

Responsibility: Cleaners are expected to know the importance of pre-drying silk, acetate and viscose fabrics after they have been pre-treated with water. The cleaner should take the responsibility here.

Trouser creases turn soft

Fault: These pure wool trousers were carefully finished with the correct use of steam and vacuum. The presser then placed the folded trousers on a hanger, held the iron vertically against the side of the leg panel and applied a little live steam to smooth out a few visible residual creases. The customer, who was exceptionally critical, then returned the garment and complained that the sharpness of the creases varied both down the leg and from one leg to the other.

Cause: These trousers were probably perfectly finished in the first instance and the creases were finally fixed with vacuum to cool, dry and set the cloth at the end of each lay. It is the use of vacuum that makes the cleaner’s crease so much more durable than the domestic one because domestic ironing boards do not have vacuum. The cleaner has ruined this perfect result by touching it up on the hanger using live steam. The wool absorbs the steam, which then progressively softens the set creases.

Responsibility: The blame here lies with the presser.

Rectification: The result can be reversed if the trousers are re-pressed correctly but without any final touch-up on the hanger.

Jacket shrinks and puckers

Fault: This cotton jacket had puckered extensively at the seams after drycleaning and the customer said it had shrunk noticeably.

Cause: The garment fabric has been finished under tension as the final stage of its manufacture. This has set a stretch into the material, which has survived garment make-up and normal wear. Drycleaning has released the stretch so the panels have shrunk and all the main seams have puckered.

Responsibility: The garment maker and, ultimately, the cloth maker, are responsible for the puckered seams as only they can control the relaxation potential.

Rectification: The garment should be re-finished using steam at the start of each lay. Place the lay under tension, using two pairs of hands if needed, and press the fabric. Apply vacuum through the buck or the bed to cool, dry and set the lay before finally releasing the tension. The puckering and shrinkage should have been mostly removed.


Shrinkage and puckering Shrinkage and puckering
Creased linen Creased linen
soft trouser creases soft trouser creases
Crack Creases in silk Crack Creases in silk
Wrinkled armhole seam Wrinkled armhole seam


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