Finishing techniques

High value, high standards

1 February 2006



Designer and other high value clothes can be profitable for drycleaners but the results must be high standard says Roger Cawood


Many drycleaners now see high value and designer clothes as an important area for building turnover.

However, this sector of the market is not for the faint hearted as processing these expensive garments can prove as full of problems for the drycleaner as processing suede and leather.

When customers buy designer garments, they assume they are buying a quality item. This may be true of the fabric, but the make-up of the garment in terms of its response to cleaning and finishing is critical.

These exclusive, high-priced garments are produced in short runs and manufacturers do not always choose to bear the extra cost of having their creations tested against BS/ISO standards.

Unfortunately some manufacturers will still use circle P or circle F symbols on the care labels, even though the garments have not been tested. This is not illegal. However if a manufacturer uses the symbols without testing and the garment fails in drycleaning the responsibility will usually lie with the retailer/manufacturer, provided the cleaner has used the appropriate cleaning process for the care label and that the process parameters conform to the care label specifications – for example if the label bears the symbol circle P with a single bar underneath, the machine outlet air temperature for drycleaning must not exceed 50C .

Some high-value items have little or no aftercare details and do not even carry a fibre content label and their response to cleaning can be unpredictable. In my experience, saris, which can cost well over £700, may have little information that will help the drycleaner, and the information on Chinese-made garments is not always reliable. Under these circumstances, if drycleaners are not entirely confident of a satisfactory outcome, they should only accept the item at “owner’s risk”.

Bear in mind the following points when accepting high value clothes:

• the customer will expect very high standards of result

• the skills and equipment that will be needed for this particular garment’s cleaning, spotting and finishing requirements

• where possible it is often safer to remove buttons, beads and trims rather than try to protect them

• extensive water-based staining may require a process that contradicts the care label details.

Ball gowns and wedding dresses are often heavily soiled around the hem. Wedding dresses will often need wetcleaning to restore the garment to a satisfactory condition.

Some white garments may need a water-based process to restore a good colour.

Wetcleaning/washing will inevitably mean that the finishing of cellulosics, silk and animal hair textiles in particular will be more time consuming and will demand a higher skill level from the finisher.

The right tools

Drycleaners handling high value clothes must have the right equipment. Having both a press and ironing equipment will increase the finishing options. A multi-finisher will be very useful in the finishing of gowns, jackets and long coats and has advantages over a cabinet or dolly former.

It finishes at significantly higher temperatures and considerably improves the removal of wrinkles and creases.

Many garments such as jackets and coats can be tensioned in both horizontal and vertical planes during forming, producing a very high standard of finish.

Puff irons, often referred to as steam bolts, are still available today and are invaluable when finishing complex garments such as wedding dresses and ball gowns.

These tools will also prove useful in finishing to a high standard:

• block/beater

• trowel/mock Iron

• rod tie former

• pleating band

• brushes – stiff and soft

• sleeve expanders

• vent clamps

• body clamps

• press mitt.

Techniques

Finishing operators will usually have several options for most garments and fabrics. They will generally have their own preference, influenced by their training and by the available equipment.

Expert finishers will have not have a fixed approach, but will be able to change or adapt their techniques to suit specific garments or fabrics. As finishers will see a wide range of fabrics, fibres and textiles and combinations, I can only outline a few techniques here.

On a general note, before starting to iron any item, always check the thermostat setting on the iron is appropriate for the fabric. If in doubt use a low heat setting. Always test trims and particularly sequins before steam finishing.

Lightweight pure wool

Some fabrics can tax the skills of the most experienced staff. The lightweight pure wool textiles used in men’s designer/high value suits demand very precise techniques to produce high standards of finish. These fabrics often emphasise even the slightest imperfection in finish.

Problems can arise through hygral expansion – a change that can occur as the moisture regain of wool fabrics varies. On lightweight wool wovens this may result in seam pucker and the appearance of bubbling on panels. (In this case bubbling is not caused by interlining failure). Free steam should therefore be kept to a minimum.

To produce the appropriate finish on these lightweight wools it is often necessary to try different pressing or ironing techniques and the following may prove helpful.

Trousers: After topping, the centre leg lays can be pressed using minimum top steam (bottom steam should not be used when the press head is closed).

If vacuum has been applied during steaming, it should be removed before the head is released. The leg should be stretched and smoothed, using your hands, and then vacuumed to set the finish. The finish can be touched up with the iron, with or without steam. Alternatively the centre leg lays can be completely finished with the iron avoiding excess pressure on the seams and using minimum steam or no steam at all. Minor imperfections can be corrected on the hanger with a little free steam from the iron.

Jackets: An air-blowing ironing table is ideal for finishing many jackets after they have been formed. The lining should normally be finished first and light ironing, using the blower, will normally remove superficial creases. Then if necessary iron the exterior.

Correctly set and well-finished lapels are critical to the jacket’s appearance. The lapel should either be pressed or ironed face down, this helps to avoid impression marks and shine on the outer edges.

The lapel should then be rolled and set, the roll terminating at or just above the top button. This is done by holding the lapel in the correct position and applying minimum steam, with the point of the steam iron two thirds down from the collar area towards the top button, firming with the fingers, then vacuum to set the finish.

Pile fabrics

Acrylic pile fabrics such as Dralon are very heat sensitive and must not be finished.

Velvets made from acetate, silk viscose and combinations of these fibres can be steamed using bottom/ironing surface steam. Where the pile is distorted it can be brushed lightly with a very soft brush. The pile on these velvets is particularly prone to distortion in the underarm area of dresses and in the seat and it is not normally possible to restore the pile in finishing although very light brushing may improve the appearance. These limitations should be brought to the attention of the customer when the item is deposited for cleaning.

Satin fabrics

Many high value garments are made from satin or have a satin component. Satin is a special type of weave using filament yarns and can be made from a number of fibres including silk and acetate. It is particularly susceptible to damage by sharp items in cleaning such as hooks or diamante clasps which can scratch the surface. Acetate satins can easily be de-lustred during finishing if garment formers or steam irons eject condensate.

Satin can be ironed without vacuum but using steam at a medium iron setting. Vacuum after ironing to set the fabric. Satin can also be ironed with steam using the air blower and can also be finished on a press or ironing table using bottom steam and a mock iron or press mitt.

When using a mock iron it should be moved slowly over the fabric to ensure that the maximum heat is reflected. Note that mock irons/trowels/press mitts should be warmed with steam before use to avoid condensation forming on the base.

Silks

The more robust silk fabrics made from staple yarns are, in most cases, relatively straightforward to finish. Garments such as ball gowns and wedding dresses are more readily finished on ironing equipment, using the iron in conjunction with the air blower or surface steam and a mock iron. A multi–finisher can often be used to remove many wrinkles and creases before ironing. A short cycle can be used to remove remaining creases.

Lightweight silks such as chiffon can be steam ironed with vacuum at medium temperature. A very light mist with a fine water spray followed by ironing without steam will usually produce a superb finish on silk. Lightweight sheer silk that has been wetcleaned, immersed in or sprayed with water can be rolled in a terry towel to remove excess moisture and then dry ironed while the garment is still slightly damp.

Taffeta

Taffeta can be ironed at medium temperature without steam, followed by vacuum. Great care is needed in finishing to avoid dragging and creasing the fabric with the iron as such creases can be permanent, particularly if the fabric has been sprayed with water.

Linen

Many linen garments have a less than perfect standard of finish when new, with random creases and wrinkles throughout the garment. This is often a feature of the fabric so the drycleaner should assess the garment’s condition and should discuss with the customer the standard of finish that can be obtained with the customer, before cleaning.

Linen requires a finishing temperature of 200C. At recommended steam pressures, presses and steam-heated irons seldom achieve more than 120C. Where appropriate, misting with water and ironing with an electric iron on a high setting will have the desired effect but there is a high risk of shine and impression marks on seams. The following may help:

• finish the item to the best standard on the press/ironing table.

• steam in the rotor cabinet for approximately 9 seconds.

• remove from the cabinet and mist lightly all over with a top quality spray starch

• allow the item to condition for around 0.5minutes

• place the item in the cabinet and operate the normal automatic cycle, – around 15 seconds steam and 20seconds air blowing

• touch up with an iron if needed.

Ties

Ties have a distinct tendency to twist and convolute during cleaning. The risk of this happening can be substantially reduced if they are cleaned in a specialist tie bag.

Ties should not be ironed flat. The edges should have a slightly rolled finish which can be produced using a rod type tie former. The former should be heated with steam before inserting it in the tie (to avoid the risk of condensation marking the fabric). After tensioning the former, the tie should be placed face down on the ironing table or bottom buck and steamed. This is then followed by vacuum. The former needs to be withdrawn with care to avoid disturbing the finish.

Find other articles by Roger Cawood in our archive


Finishing Sequins Finishing Sequins
Finishing Presentation Finishing Presentation
Finishing Lapels Finishing Lapels
Finishing Cotton Velvet Finishing Cotton Velvet
Finishing Satin Finishing Satin


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