Meeting standards

British and International Standards state quite clearly that the care label in the garment is supposed to refer to the entire garment.This specifically includes all trims: piping, sequins, buttons, badges, motifs, etc. The label implies that the garment should be capable of withstanding the appropriate reference process given in the International Standard method of test for drycleanability (ISO 3175).

If the care symbol in the garment warns of the need to restrict the process, by displaying a bar beneath the drycleaning circle symbol, this warning also applies to the trim. The bar calls for one or more of four specific precautions, reduced mechanical action, reduced drying temperature, reduced solvent temperature or strict control of moisture in the system. It is up to the cleaner to examine the article and decide which precautions are relevant. Many cleaners take no chances and apply all four restrictions regardless.

Reducing mechanical action could call for button protectors or button removal or the garment could be turned inside out and enclosed in a net bag. Underloading the cage and reducing the cycle time would also be required.

If there is no bar beneath the circle symbol then the garment is deemed to be capable of withstanding a normal cycle without the buttons chipping or the beads dissolving. The implication is that the construction of the buttons will withstand repeated impact against the metal cage wall which can be quite vigorous during tumble drying.

Unfortunately, International Standards provide no advice to the garment maker on sensible methods of test for polyurethane coated trim. Experience shows there is little point in testing a brand new garment. The garment must be put through a thorough wearer trial so that the polyurethane trim becomes flexed and soiled in normal use. Only then will any tendency to cracking and peeling in drycleaning be revealed.