History reported by the cleaner:

“I have a problem! My customer has returned her wedding dress which we cleaned and boxed in acid-free tissue just over six years ago. It is now discoloured yellow, mostly at the back, in some lines and splodges. It is still in the original folds with the tissue and we have tried the usual soaping and recleaning, leaving it better but still with visible staining. She was planning to sell the dress for £1500 but it isn’t saleable as is it stands. She is a good customer, and I am keen to help her if I can. How do I stand legally after 6 years?”

Technical cause: there can be many reasons for staining developing after a long period of time. Failure of the original staining to come away completely in the cleaning process is the most likely: this can be a problem with any stain containing sugars (such as champagne or white wine); or with proteins (from gravy or ice cream, for example). Neither of these groups dissolve well in cleaning solvents.

As a form of protection, most wedding gowns are boxed and packed with acid free tissue, but this will not prevent stored textiles deteriorating over long periods of time. During periods of very damp, high humidity conditions in the winter period (that can at times prevail in lofts, sheds and garages), the wrapping and packaging itself may well result in the transfer of stains from the cardboard box or from wicking of contaminated moisture through packing tissue to the garment.

The law in this area is unclear; but in our opinion (because of the widely variable temperatures and relative humidity in unheated, uncontrolled storage), no cleaner could reasonably be held responsible for staining that has only come to the owner’s attention after, say, more than a year in a domestic storage environment. The best option for long-term domestic storage is to keep the garment within the heated, occupied area of the home.

It is also the case that failure of the machine detergent to disperse completely in the solvent at the start of a very short solvent wash in a one-bath process may result in yellowish marks. This is an unusual fault and the description given by the cleaner here points to the first cause – incomplete removal of all staining.

Responsibility: if the dress was stainfree after the original cleaning and finishing, then it is not reasonable to expect the cleaner to take responsibility for what cannot be seen. The staining which developed is an unfortunate consequence of the ageing of the original contamination and not cleaner incompetence.

UNCONTROLLED CONDITIONS: A wedding gown box will not protect a wedding gown from poor uncontrolled storage conditions

Rectification: if the cleaner is keen to help the customer here, which is commendable, it is suggested that they first explain why the marking has developed in storage (through oxidation of traces of original staining which was not visible after cleaning) and why there should be no valid claim against the cleaner. Once that has been established, the cleaner could then offer post treatment and recleaning on a ‘best results’ basis, with no liability on the cleaner if the result is still unsaleable.

STAIN FREE: Use a pipette to drop the hydrogen peroxide onto the stain than use a wisp of steam from the steam gun to remove the developed stain

Roger Cawood reports having considerable success on many occasions in the past with the following treatment for this type of developed staining: apply 9% hydrogen peroxide to one of the stains and gently warm up with a wisp of dry steam from the steam gun. If this is only partially successful, re-treat but use a little 5% ammonia solution before applying the hydrogen peroxide and steam. If this is successful, then carefully repeat over all the stained areas. If you have the appropriate equipment, you may find it easier to use bottom steam from the press or an ironing table rather than the steam gun. While applying steam through the fabric, place a drop of the peroxide on the stain using a pipette. Continue steaming for a few seconds to allow the peroxide to react with the stain. Hydrogen peroxide is most effective when warmed to 80C.

Top tip: Do not use steam or the steam gun to heat satin fabrics because it may locally de-lustre the stained area!

STAIN FREE: Use a pipette to drop the hydrogen peroxide onto the stain than use a wisp of steam from the steam gun to remove the developed stain

Hydrogen peroxide has always been regarded as a ‘safe’ bleach within the drycleaning industry, and it is very rare for it to affect coloured fabrics. However, you should always do a colour test on an inconspicuous part of the item before proceeding with stain removal.

How to remove developed stains

In the case of wedding gowns, developed stains are most likely to arise from the spillage of drinks. Champagne, for example, might not leave a noticeable stain (depending on fabric type), but the residual sugars left behind in the fabric may turn a yellowish or brownish colour when exposed to the heat of drying or finishing. There might also be very small sugar residues (the result of incomplete stain removal during drycleaning or spotting), which do not develop during the process of drycleaning, and which can gradually appear through oxidation during long term storage.

NOT EASY: These stains developed during steam ¬finishing; having been exposed to high temperature they would probably be less than straightforward to remove

Leaving aside wedding gowns, developed stains are very common and can also be the result of incomplete removal of food stains where any residual albumin, say from cream, milk or egg may appear, particularly when exposed to the heat of steam finishing. Heat-set albumin can be a very difficult stain type to remove, whereas when fresh, these stains can usually be very easily taken out using nothing more than the cold-water flush. Fresh, dry albumin is soluble in water and is normally easy to remove, but when exposed to heat it becomes insoluble and may require the use of a digester/enzyme in spotting (red bottle) to convert it back to a soluble state.

Realistically, specific and positive identification of stains is frequently not possible, particularly in a busy production environment and bearing in mind that the feel, colour and appearance of stains is heavily influenced by the fabric type and colour. Experience and knowledgeable guesswork is often required and with an experienced, competent operator a combination of the two works well. Unfortunately, information provided by the customer cannot always be relied upon.

Most cleaners today use kit chemicals for stain removal as opposed to pure chemical reagents such as acetic acid, hydrogen peroxide and so on. However, pure chemicals are more cost effective, safer and generally easier to use. (For further detailed information on pure chemical reagents see’ Let’s Talk Stains’ LCN December 2022 issue.)

Removal of developed stains from residual sugars

Some of these stains may respond readily to a quick flush with a water spray or a flush with the steam gun. Move stains that remain to the main body of the spotting table and apply a kit chemical protein remover (red bottle). Work this as appropriate with the spatula, or tamp with a soft brush, then leave on one side for around 10 min to allow the protein remover time to dissolve the stain. Then work the stain again with the spatula, or tamp, and flush out and dry off. Any remaining deepseated staining can be spotted as above with 9% hydrogen peroxide.

NOT EASY: These stains developed during steam ¬finishing; having been exposed to high temperature they would probably be less than straightforward to remove

Removal of developed stains containing albumin

Flush with cold water and then move the wetted area to the main body of the spotting table and tamp with an appropriate brush or work with a spatula. If the stain does not respond apply the protein remover (red bottle) and work it into the stained area, then place the item in a plastic bag and leave it in a warm place (enzymes are generally most effective at around 36 – 38C) for at least 30 minutes, the object being to keep the spotted area moist and allow the enzyme in the protein remover time to convert the albumin back to a water-soluble state. Specific digester/ enzyme spotters should be available from your chemical supplier and may be more effective than your kit protein remover. Spot any remaining residual stain using hydrogen peroxide.

Finally, bear in mind that not all stains can be safely removed, and much will depend on the fabric/fibre type. For example, an oil-based paint stain might be easily and safely be removed from polyester fabric but the same stain on a delicate silk item may be impossible to remove without risk of damage to the fabric and/or the colour. It is the cleaner’s responsibility to remove stains without damage to the fabric or the colour. Stains and soiling are the responsibility of the customer and if the cleaner cannot remove them, the customer should have no claim against the cleaner. However, any damage to the fabric or the colour of the item itself could lead to a legitimate claim.


The fi­rst stage in any stain removal procedure is to identify the stain, identi­fication being based on the following:

Feel
Odour
Colour
Appearance
Location