Whether you are a dry- or wetcleaner this group of potential stains can present some real problems, particularly in terms of identification and the fact that manufacturers are continually developing products designed to be better at sticking things together. This makes them more difficult to remove from textiles.
There is a plethora of products available for DIY some of which simply cannot be removed and others that can only be removed with great difficulty. As always the first hurdle to cross is the identification of the stain and while we cannot always rely on what the customer tells us, in this case, it is often the best bet, so try to elicit as much information as possible during reception.
Two part bonding agents, fibre glass resins and car body filler
Araldite is probably the best known product of this type and together with resins which, when mixed with a catalyst, and used as bonding agents, usually with glass fibre, cannot be removed if absorbed into the textile where they will form a very hard translucent stain. Car body filler forms a very hard opaque stain; it may well be possible with care, using a disposable razor, to physically remove superficial blobs of filler lying on the fabric surface. Stains from two part products, car body filler and fibre glass resins that have that have not been mixed with their catalyst and have not hardened, can usually be removed on the spotting table with a kit paint remover.
Silicone sealants
These products, usually white or translucent remain flexible when cured. They can normally be removed with the Supercrease removal agent using the same technique used for the removal of the Supercrease resin from trouser creases.
Water-based wood glue and acrylic sealants
As these products are water based they can be easily removed with water before they set. The wood glues are very easy to use and form extremely strong bonds with wood and remain flexible but once they have cured, they can be very difficult to dissolve. Based on PVA, the glues are normally white in colour but when cured the stain may dry clear or a faint brown leaving a stiff area in the fabric. Acrylic sealants when set can also be very difficult to remove. Success at removing stains from both product types will depend very much on the fabric but on, say robust wool / polyester blends, while patience may be needed the chances of success are fairly good. Using a kit blood spotter try the following method.
- Apply the blood spotter and either tamp with a medium brush or work with the spatula.
- Gently warm the stain with the steam gun, if you are lucky the stained area will gradually start to soften and dissolve enabling the stain to be flushed out with water.
- If the stain does not respond, flush with water, place the item in a plastic bag and leave in a warm place for 4 – 5 hours to allow the water to continue the softening process.
- Remove from the bag and tamp with blood spotter (or use the spatula) and alternatively flush gently with the steam gun. If not successful try working it with a kit paint remover and / or 10 % acetic acid.
Super glue
Super glue does not normally respond to dryside spotting agents. Dimethylformamide was used by cleaners it but due to health and safety considerations it can no longer be recommended.
There are now products available from manufacturers designed for, among other substrates, stain removal from fabrics. As these products are designed for domestic use, if you plan to use one check carefully before use for potential colour loss and fabric damage; this particularly applies to delicate / sensitive textiles such as silk and acetate.
If you believe it may not be possible to remove a stain, it may be better not to accept the item rather than risk a disappointed customer.
